I’m a sea person and I’ve always wanted to take up surfing as a new hobby. The reason is simple: I believe I can do so much more in the sea apart from swimming. Surfing gives me a sense of control, a great feeling when it comes to subduing the wave and make it work for you.
So I signed up for the surf lessons provided by Satu Suku surf school without much hesitation, and Cherating (oh my, the best beach I’ve ever been so far in the peninsular!) happen to be the only place where you can surf in Malaysia.
So I met my super skilled and supportive coach (Landy), put on my surf suit, got a surf board (which is about 7ft. long ) and got into the sea and learn. Cut the long story short. Here are some things I learnt about surfing, and how it relates to our life.
Balance
The first thing I learnt was how to keep a balance on the surf board. Keeping a balance is very crucial as it determines how long you can stay on the board. Apart from that, balance will help you tap on the wave better, and you’ll find the board can be amazingly stable even when you stand up as the board moves.
Although balancing might sounds simple, it actually took me quite some time trying to balance myself even when I was lying on the board. For numerous times, I missed fantastic waves as the result of me spending too much time struggling to strike a balance on the board. Balance plays such a crucial role in surfing: It keeps you stay on the wave longer, but you can either miss the wave, or being violently tossed by the wave if you fail to do so.
This made me question myself how balanced I am doing in life. There are countless times I find myself over-emphasized on one area and neglected another, and the result is often endless anxieties and disappointments. What it means to live a balanced life?
I’m reminded of Jesus Christ. I think He demonstrated the perfect kind of life because He said: “I bought glory to You here on earth by completing the work You gave me to do… ” (John 17:4). What a confidence! His secret of success was: “Love the Lord your God with all your heart, all your soul and all your mind. This is the first and greatest commandment. A second is equally important: Love your neighbor as yourself” (Matthew 22:37-40).
Living a balanced life means you honor God, others and yourself with the way you use your gifts and spend your time and resources. We are not perfect, we cannot be anyone to everyone. God is perfect, and therefore He knows what is right for us to do. Look at Jesus, despite his power and the needs of those around him, left much undone; yet he completed everything God had given him to do.
“You will find balance when you know that in God’s eyes you have done what you need to do.” – Divine Moments for Men
Wave
Watching the wave is another expertise to master. Wave watching can take a long time because not every wave can give you the push you need when you surf. Honestly speaking, I was (and still am.. hehehe, sorry Sifu!) very confused by the way the surfers predict the wave. Every “good” wave I see may not be good enough for the other surfers. There you’ll find me stupidly and clumsily prepare myself for a pick up yet others just stayed still and watch.
Positioning myself for wave is also something I learnt. I still remember myself going either too far from where the wave picks up, or predicted the wrong direction of the wave. As the result, I missed a lot of good opportunities to surf.
Thank God for my instructor. He can “smell” the wave before its’ coming. He knows which one is good, and he also knows where the wave is going. Whenever he sees one good wave coming, he’d say “ok Daniel, get on the board, wait… ok, now turn towards the beach, start paddle, paddle paddle paddle..!” and when the wave hits, the board accelerates and take off…… the rest is sheer excitement!!
Waves are like opportunities in life.
- They don’t come ALL the time, but when they do, cease it!
- Waiting for one can take quite a while, but stay alert, POSITION yourself for opportunity, study how it comes and where it goes, so that you can ride it just at the right time.
- It takes experience to know which opportunity to tap on. Some may be good and some may not. Getting an experienced mentor with you would be the best way to start.
- “Make the most of every opportunity in these evil days” (Ephesians 5:16)
Focus
As a beginner, I feel very excited when I find myself standing on the surf board and surf. It is almost like taking my first step on the moon! Think about it: for the first time in my life, I roam without needing a mechanical engine, a single wheel, and not even my feet! It’s all hydropower! What an experience! I was mesmerized every time I look at the board and see how it ‘interacts’ with the water!
But however, looking down at the water and the board while you surf is a big no-no if you want to stay longer on the wave. “Don’t look down the board, focus on the direction you want to go”, as what my surf instructor repeats. Honestly speaking, for an excited-beginner like me, this is something really hard! It is like a new driver who cannot stop looking at the gear box while changing gear!
Hard it may be, it is true. I find that whenever I look at the board, I lose my focus (the direction I want to go); and when I lose balance, I fall into the water right away.
Focus is crucial not only in surfing but also in living!
What do you focus on? What is it that you want to pursue? I tend to focus on something near, something that gives instant and temporal excitement (like watching the water), but having a target that gives you long-term fulfillment is what brings you further. Set your heart on the right thing, find your life a purpose that is worth dying for, then go for it, and you can surf through the life!
I’d like to end this with something that happened over my last lesson. It was a bright morning, wave was great, and there were some other surfers around too. What’s interesting is that I finally managed to tap on some good waves without having my instructor telling me. It was a great feeling, something over-the top! But somehow I also repeated the same mistakes over and over again, and fall. I did actually ask myself at one point, out of frustrations: “Why am I doing this?”. For your information, surfing takes a lot of energy especially when you try to position yourself for the wave. Frustration comes when you tried your best to tap on the wave yet you either missed it, or you lost balance and fall.
God is good, there was a time after a failed attempt, I over-heard a local surfer singing “I wanna be a pro surfer, so freakin’ bad” . Sounds amusing, but somehow it’s true. Like him, I do want to become a pro surfer, but I also want to surf through my life like a pro. However, it takes a lot of mistakes, pain and disappointments in order to achieve that, and the key in order to achieve that is: Never give up trying! Yeah, never give up trying! Keep on trying until you become a pro, and you will, eventually, if you never give up!
… and I believe God is like my surf instructor! What can I say: Landy is a professional surfer. Despite of his qualifications, he is very down to earth, encouraging and supportive! Whenever I made it to tap on the wave and surf, I’d look to him who is standing far in the sea, and he’d raise his both arms and pointing his thumbs up. That’s the assurance! It made me feel good about myself. But whenever I missed a wave or didn’t last long enough on the board, he’d say: “It’s ok, your are doing just fine Daniel, just be mindful of the mistakes you usually make, and you’ll be perfect”. That’s the encouragement and acceptance I need to keep on trying and not giving up. If a mere human like Landy can be this encouraging and supportive, how much more our Father in Heaven, who love us and have our best interest in His heart?
“Surely Your goodness and unfailing love will pursue me all the days of my life” (Psalms 23:6)
“I am certain that God, who began the good work within you, will continue His work until it is finally finished on the day when Christ Jesus returns” (Philippians 1:6)
May you be blessed by His goodness, and surf through life with the assurance that He is there for you, anytime, anywhere!
And oh, let me know if you want to join me in the next surfing trip again! It will be some where between November to January next year 
Believe me, it’s fun!!
My surf instructor, Mr. Landy Ismail
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